Assessment - Grace's Design 1st Practice (Group A) - MUA Charlotte Logue (Group B)

These image are taken from the first practice of applying Grace's makeup design, at the point of this practice I had not yet received Grace's facechart and therefore had to work purely on what was described to me. Although this meant that the process took slightly longer as we had to pause to enable Grace to explain the next step I felt it was beneficial in the early stages of our practice and development of her final design. Originally Grace was unsure about how to apply the bold copper metallic pigment that covers her neck and ears, I suggested using the colour to shape the bottom of the face into a heart bringing the point of the copper up into the dip of the chin. By creating a heart shape we were able to strengthen the connection between Grace's design and the Elizabethan influence of the heart shape which was a popular design feature within the 16th and 17th century. In future applications this copper pigment will be continued down then neck of the model to act as a metallic ruff almost, completely detaching the face from the rest of the body. 

A key feature of Grace's design was focused on the use of a bold highlight that went down the centre of the face emphasising areas such as the centre of the brow, cupids bow of the lip and chin. This was an element that she had been inspired from the Illamasqua demonstration where a similar look was created. The creation of this highlight was the most challenging element of the whole look as Grace's skin texture on her nose meant that certain products had a problem remaining on the skin. One product that we tried originally was a Kryolan liquid highlight however using this alone was ineffective as the texture of the product took away the foundation which was grease based underneath. I attempted to counteract this problem by using a powder and then applying the highlighter but this was ineffective, the solution I then came up with was to apply the highlight delicately with a sponge ensuring not to smudge the foundation underneath and then seal the whole nose with additional highlight from the Glam and Glow palette. I found this method was far more effective and created a far more dramatic highlight especially on the centre of the brow and cupids bow where the light hit most. 

In addition to this Grace and I also discussed how we could go about adding a little more product to areas such as the eyes and brows to create subtle shadowing. In future a small amount of white eyeshadow will be run through the eyebrows to bleach them out more (adding a further link to Elizabethan beauty) and also a small amount of eyeshadow to enhance the eyes. Regardless the whole focus of the makeup look is to remain on the metallic neck and highlight.