Practical - Contemporary Elizabethan Makeup

Contemporary Elizabethan Makeup & Blocking Brows (2nd Attempt)
Health & Safety: Apply apron around the neck of the model to protect clothes from makeup.
Secure all hair away from the face using hair grips/pins.
Run a consultation with the client/model to check for any allergies, medication or contraindications.
Ensure hands are washed and that all cuts are covered.  
Products Used: 

• Metal Mixing Palette and Spatula 
• Disposable Makeup Sponges
• Round Fluffy Brush 
• Angled Contour Brush
• Flat Eyeshadow Brush
• Small Angled Brush
• Fluffy Blending Brush
• Triangular Powder Puff
• Ultracolour Foundation Palette - Light
• Dermacolour Concealer Palette
• Illamasqua Skinbase - White
• Illamasqua Matte Primer
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Pritt Stick
• Kryolan White Supracolour
• Glam and Glow Contour Palette - Glamour Tan
• Illamasqua Reflections Palette 
• Mini Lip Rouge Palette - LC010 

Process of Blocking the Eyebrows 

1. Ensure the face has been thoroughly cleansed, toned and moisturised.
2. Taking a small amount of toner re-wipe through the brows to ensure all dirt has been removed. 
3. Using a metal spatula take a small amount of glue and warm onto the back of the hand to create a smooth consistency. 
4. Using a spatula push the glue into the brow and comb through the first layer with a disposable mascara wand to ensure all hairs are covered fully. 
5. Using a clean finger gently press onto the glue after a few seconds to ensure it has gone tacky.
6. Then apply a second layer of glue using the same method.
7. Repeat this for 4-5 layers or until all texture of the brow has been removed. 
8. Before the glue dries onto the brow take a cotton bud dipped in warm water and wipe around the brow to remove any rough edges or overhang of glue.
9. Once dry powder the whole brow with a translucent powder and puff. 
10. At this stage if using a skin toned foundation a darker concealer may be applied to knock out the dark tones of the hair still visible beneath the glue, however for a white makeup this stage is not necessary. 
11. Taking a heavy white makeup and using a sponge apply thickly to the brow area and blend out to hide the colour of the brows.
12. Continue with the rest of the base makeup and powder. 

Application of Contemporary Makeup

1. Wash hands thoroughly before touching the clients face/skin.
2. Begin by blocking out the eyebrows of the model as explained above. 
3. Apply Illamasqua matte primer all over the face. 
4. Ensure all blemishes are concealed fully using Dermacolour Concealer
5. Taking Illamasqua white skinbase foundation mixed with Ultracolour foundation and a disposable makeup sponge begin blending and dabbing the base makeup all over the face, working into the colour of the blocked brows. 
6. Ensure the ears and neck are also fully covered. 
7. Taking the translucent powder onto a puff press gently into the face to seal the base.
8. Using a angled contour brush and powder in glamour tan heavily contour under the cheekbones of the face. 
9. Using the copper/bronze shade from the Illamasqua reflections palette  apply to the inner corner of the eye socket and blend upwards over the brow bone and out to the edge of the socket using a fluffy blending brush. 
10. Deepen the inner edge of the socket with the deeper grey/brown tone from the same palette.
11. Using a small angled brush line and fill the lips with LC010 (red toned purple), blot with tissue and reapply. 

Reflection on Class
I found this look far easier to create than that of the historical Elizabethan makeup however I feel this may be due to practising techniques such as base application and brow blocking between classes. The process of blocking the eyebrows went significantly better than my previous attempts and I was able to remove most of the texture of hair from the brow area. However I did encounter some problems with using the cream eyeshadows over the top of the powdered brow makeup as if blended to hard the glue underneath began to become visible. This problem was easily fixed with a light reapplication of the foundation and using a soft fluffy brush. I have also learnt that I need to improve on my lip application as I still find I am making errors and slips either resulting in uneven lip shape. Although I am sure that this is a technique that will develop over time my struggle with lips is becoming a reoccurring issue and something that will be needing correction before the final assessment. Regardless I felt the overall makeup look was relatively successful however my lip application and focus on covering areas such as the ears still needs correction.