Practical - Eyebrow Concealing and Elizabethan Face

Historical Elizabethan Makeup Application & Blocking Brows (White Makeup)
Health & Safety: Apply apron around the neck of the model to protect clothes from makeup.
Secure all hair away from the face using hair grips/pins.
Run a consultation with the client/model to check for any allergies, medication or contraindications.
Ensure hands are washed and that all cuts are covered.  
Products Used: 

• Metal Palette and Spatula 
• Cotton Pads 
• Cleanser, Toner & Moisturiser 
• Pritt Stick Glue
• Translucent Powder
• Illamasqua Matte Primer
• White Illamasqua Skinbase Foundation
• Kryolan Powder Blush - Youthful Red 
• L’oreal Mascara - White
• Kryolan Supracolour White 
• White Powder Eyeshadow 
• Foundation Brush
• Small Eyeshadow Brush
• Disposable Makeup Sponges
• Triangular Powder Puff
• Fluffy Blusher Brush
• Disposable Mascara Wands
• Cotton Buds

Process of Blocking the Eyebrows 

1. Ensure the face has been thoroughly cleansed, toned and moisturised.
2. Taking a small amount of toner re-wipe through the brows to ensure all dirt has been removed. 
3. Using a metal spatula take a small amount of glue and warm onto the back of the hand to create a smooth consistency. 
4. Using a spatula push the glue into the brow and comb through the first layer with a disposable mascara wand to ensure all hairs are covered fully. 
5. Using a clean finger gently press onto the glue after a few seconds to ensure it has gone tacky.
6. Then apply a second layer of glue using the same method.
7. Repeat this for 4-5 layers or until all texture of the brow has been removed. 
8. Before the glue dries onto the brow take a cotton bud dipped in warm water and wipe around the brow to remove any rough edges or overhang of glue.
9. Once dry powder the whole brow with a translucent powder and puff. 
10. At this stage if using a skin toned foundation a darker concealer may be applied to knock out the dark tones of the hair still visible beneath the glue, however for a white makeup this stage is not necessary. 
11. Taking a heavy white makeup and using a sponge apply thickly to the brow area and blend out to hide the colour of the brows.
12. Continue with the rest of the base makeup and powder. 

Application of Elizabethan Makeup

1. Wash hands thoroughly before touching the clients face/skin.
2. Begin by blocking out the eyebrows of the model. 
3. Apply Illamasqua matte primer all over the face. 
4. Taking Illamasqua white skinbase foundation and a disposable makeup sponge begin blending and dabbing the white makeup all over the face, working into the colour of the brows. 
5. Ensure the ears and neck are also fully covered. 
6. Taking the translucent powder onto a puff press gently into the face to seal the white base.
7. Taking the white powder eyeshadow onto a small eyeshadow brush go over delicate areas such as the eyelids, nose and corners of the mouth to supply extra coverage. 
8. Using a disposable mascara wand apply white mascara to the lashes, top and bottom. 
9. Using a blusher brush and powder blusher in youthful red apply directly to the apples of the cheeks, for a historical makeup it is important to avoid blending up the cheekbones as this is a modern feature.
10. Taking the same small eyeshadow brush used for the white makeup dap the red blush onto the lips to give a subtle rouge. 

Reflection on Class
I found the process of blocking the eyebrows to be the most difficult part of this makeup look as my previous practise at applying an even white base makeup enabled me to complete the rest of the look rather quickly. However the process of blocking the brows was slightly more challenging especially as my model had relatively thicker brows. I found the process was made easier by simply using the flat side of the metal spatula and avoiding to much contact with the glue and my finger as this often caused it to go bumpy and uneven, this is visible particularly on the left brow of the model. However with practise I feel that I would be able to cover the eyebrows more affectively in the future as the removal of hair like texture is the most crucial element of the whole process of brow blocking. The overall look however I feel was relatively successful and made for an authentic Elizabethan makeup look, in future I will however definitely need to improve my application of brow blocking and spreading the makeup down the neck and ears more thoroughly to ensure a fully polished final makeup look.