Contemporary Elizabethan Makeup

These images are both contemporary examples of how Elizabethan beauty has influenced the modern fashion industry. Despite their difference in overall appearance both looks have a large number of similarities such as the pale skin, red hair, washed out brows and ivory lashes.

Vogue Italia September 2005, Model: Lily Cole
Photographer Richard Burbridge
http://noirfacade.livejournal.com/343968.html
Makeup artist: Osvaldo Salvatierra

This first image is taken from Vogue Italia (2005), the makeup and styling of this piece is representative of a classical Elizabethan beauty with a slight modern twist. The hair is long and copper in colour with frizzy curls throughout, almost a direct copy of Elizabeths youthful hair within her Coronation portrait, the only difference being its volume. However the makeup is what truly enhances this image as a contemporary interpretation of Elizabethan beauty. Like the portrait the models is ivory skin toned, the brows and lashes are bleached out and somewhat translucent, giving an almost angelic/heavenly illusion to the complexion. This is then contrasted against the coral red blush of the cheeks which is almost scratchy in its application, creating an appearance that is somewhat rash like and dirty. However the effect of this is rather beautiful and could be interpreted as a reference back to the toxic nature of cosmetics within the period which were renowned for causing irritation. In addition the fact that the rouge is applied in such a messy manor could also connote the innocence and childlike nature of the image. It is clear from the loose hair that the models look is youthful, expressing the Elizabethan ideals of purity and virginity and therefore the cheeks enhance that essences of youth. However what stands out within this image and constructs it as a contemporary interpretation of Elizabethan beauty is that of the statement lip, which is a rich copper brown. This colour is unconventional of an Elizabethan lip however it harmonises perfectly with the golden tones of the hair and wardrobe. In addition the metallic tones of the lip is futuristic in essence, supplying a contemporary element to the look and bringing it closer into a modern interpretation. Regardless, I feel personally that this image perhaps plays a little to close to the original Elizabethan design and within my work I wish to explore a route more challenging and artistic in its interpretation, the makeup and styling is beautiful regardless.

'The White Queen' - Wonderland, Kirsty Mitchell, 3rd Jan 2012
http://www.pinterest.com/kirstymacmakeup/elizabethan-makeup/

This image is another example of contemporary Elizabethan makeup and one that carries a more futuristic and alien interpretation. The skin is pale and iridescent with bleached brows and lashes, a key feature of Elizabethan beauty that follows through numerous contemporary interpretations, however it is the use of shading, contouring and slight alternatives to colour tone that establish this image as futuristic. The tone of the hair is a darker more burgundy red and is barely noticeable under the white spray, a significant element of Elizabethan beauty removed. In addition the heavy contours around the eyes and jaw enhance the brow bones and create the illusion of a straight or upturned brow, from this it is also apparent that the brow itself is thick. Defying Elizabethan conventions of a thin or non existent brow to enhance the forehead height. The lip is also unconventional, rejecting the classic rouge and instead remaining neutral and somewhat silvery. The overall appearance of the look is metallic and ultra modern, the use of silvers and taupes contrasts against the classic golds and reds demonstrating how despite a continuation in techniques such as pale skin and brows, a change in colour palette can have a dramatic impact in transferring Elizabethan beauty into a contemporary futuristic look that still maintains historical elements within the design.
Because of the simplicity of the changes to this makeup look in order to create such a unique interoperation of the Elizabethan ideal, it is certainly a key image of inspiration within the project.

Rough Idea for Final Image

Russian Vogue 2012
Makeup Artist: Ana Maria
http://www.closetcapers.com/elizabethan.html

The final image, taken from Russian Vogue (2012) supplies another example of how certain tweaks can completely evolve a historical base into a contemporary piece of modern Elizabethan beauty. The makeup styling of Ana Maria within this editorial shoot contains a far more vampiric element with dark burnt shades of copper, brown and black. The base makeup is conventional of the Elizabethan ideal with pale skin and brows however the rest of the face, including the choice of colour on the eyes and lips sets the look apart as a modern interpretation. The lip is full, unlike the traditional cupids bow, and dark red/black in colour; this choice of tone effectively enhances the pale tones of the skin and creates a ghostly essence. Furthermore the choice of eye makeup within this image increases the images modern tones. The eyelid is neutral apart from a bold black winged liner across the top lash line, this is a style more prominent within the 1950's (a solid 500 years into the future) however when coincided with the pale skin, dark lip and costuming this choice of liner fits effortlessly. By including subtle modern elements such as this within a historical theme, it effectively allows the makeup artist to bring the makeup forward to fit a contemporary design. In addition, the use of dark makeup within this piece completely contrasts the  connotations of purity that surrounded the 'Virgin Queen', it could be artistically interpreted that the colours hint at a hidden darkness within the period of her reign.